Friday, July 12, 2013
Tuesday, July 9, 2013
Khmer Traditional Dresses Understanding (Part II)
Cotton Textiles
The various ethnic groups of Cambodia also produce cotton material for religious clothing and other purposes, such as for bedding
  and for various household textiles. The royal courts also imported  
Indian chintz with patterns especially for the Southeast Asian market.
The kroma
  is the all-purpose utility cotton cloth used by either men or women  
throughout the country as a head or neck scarf, belt, or towel. It is  
also used as a bag to carry things. This rectangular textile has a  
checkered pattern, usually blue and white or red and white, with striped
  ends. Political groups such as the Khmer Rouge have used the kroma to symbolize membership.
The
  Cham, an Austronesian group, are highly skilled silk weavers who  
produce cotton tube-skirts or sarongs for both men and women. Three or  
four hundred years ago, the Cham reportedly used to produce batiks (wax 
 resist-dyed fabrics) in cotton similar to that of their kin in insular 
Southeast Asia.  Cham women weave a checked or plaid cotton sarong for 
men. Natural or  white cotton is important in Cham religious activities;
 it is worn by  Cham priests and used as a sacred object during 
religious ceremonies.
Other Mon-Khmer and Austronesian minorities 
living in the northeastern region of Cambodia  weave cotton cloth on 
back strap looms for clothing and domestic use.  The groups of both of 
these linguistic families weave similar textiles  by attaching the warp 
beam of the back strap loom to a tree or part of a house in order the achieve the lengths of woven material needed for their loincloths.
The
  male loincloth is approximately 20 to 25 centimeters wide and 3 to 7  
meters long. It is indigo blue or black with large red warp stripes and 
 smaller yellow and white warp stripes. Supplementary patterns also  
decorate the stripes. The ends of the loincloth are patterned with red  
bands with supplementary patterns of animal or plant motifs. Red tassels
  and lead, glass, or plastic beading
  sometimes decorate the edges and ends of the loincloth. Men of the  
various Mon-Khmer linguistic groups sometimes wear a blanket over a  
shoulder during rituals, but otherwise do not wear an upper garment.  
Occasionally, men wear a simple tunic made from plant fibers such as  
bark cloth or banana leaves. These plant-fiber tunics are reported to  
have been more common when the technology to weave cotton was not  
familiar to these groups. It is now rare to find clothing made from  
these fibers. Men of the Jarai and Ede Austronesian minorities wear a  
collarless shirt of indigo or black cotton adorned with red yarn or  
metal beads on special occasions.
Women of the different ethnic minorities wear tube skirts.
  The long tube-skirt is worn tucked in around the breasts and is made  
from two pieces of material sewn together to form a tube. The shorter  
version is made from one piece of cloth sewn into a tube and is worn  
tucked in at the waist. The color scheme of the women's tube-skirts is  
similar to that of the men's loincloth. Women either do not wear an  
upper garment or wear a simple tunic made from a single piece of cloth  
with a hole cut in the middle of the textile for the head and the sides 
 sewn together leaving open spaces for the arms. Ede women add sleeves 
to the tunic and decorate them with red yarn and metal beading.
As
 with other Khmer and Cham ethnicities, the minority groups of northeast
 Cambodia presently reserve traditional dress for special occasions. 
Textile production in Cambodia  has experienced disruption because of 
political conflict, particularly  during the Khmer Rouge regime of the 
late 1970s. Textile production  increased in the calmer conditions at 
the beginning of the twenty-first  century, encouraged by renewed local 
and foreign interest in hand-woven  textiles, particularly in mastering 
the dyeing and weaving of the pidan hol produced prior to the twentieth century.
Khmer Traditional Dresses Understanding (Part I)
 Traditional dress in Cambodia is similar to traditional dress in neighboring Laos and Thailand. Sampot is the lower garment worn by either sex. The sampot
  for urban lower class and peasant women is a tube-skirt (sarong)  
approximately one and a half meters in length with both ends sewn  
together and is worn wrapped around the waist and secured with a cloth  
belt. Women of the middle and upper classes preferred to wear the sampot chang kben
  on a daily basis until the beginning of the twentieth century. This  
rectangular piece of cloth is approximately three meters long and one  
meter wide and is worn by first wrapping the cloth around the waist and 
 stretching the ends away from the body. The outstretched ends are then 
 twisted together and pulled between the legs and toward the back. The  
ends are tucked into the waist at the back, and the sampot chang kben is lastly fastened with a cloth or metal belt. Women of all social strata wear the sampot chang kben on special occasions such as religious ceremonies and weddings. Men also wear the sampot chang kben,
  but the traditional textile patterns worn by males differ from those  
worn by females. Traditionally, neither women nor men wore an upper  
garment. However, when the French colonial presence grew in Cambodia in 
the late nineteenth century, both men and women began to wear upper 
garments.
Traditional dress in Cambodia is similar to traditional dress in neighboring Laos and Thailand. Sampot is the lower garment worn by either sex. The sampot
  for urban lower class and peasant women is a tube-skirt (sarong)  
approximately one and a half meters in length with both ends sewn  
together and is worn wrapped around the waist and secured with a cloth  
belt. Women of the middle and upper classes preferred to wear the sampot chang kben
  on a daily basis until the beginning of the twentieth century. This  
rectangular piece of cloth is approximately three meters long and one  
meter wide and is worn by first wrapping the cloth around the waist and 
 stretching the ends away from the body. The outstretched ends are then 
 twisted together and pulled between the legs and toward the back. The  
ends are tucked into the waist at the back, and the sampot chang kben is lastly fastened with a cloth or metal belt. Women of all social strata wear the sampot chang kben on special occasions such as religious ceremonies and weddings. Men also wear the sampot chang kben,
  but the traditional textile patterns worn by males differ from those  
worn by females. Traditionally, neither women nor men wore an upper  
garment. However, when the French colonial presence grew in Cambodia in 
the late nineteenth century, both men and women began to wear upper 
garments.
Even after the French presence in Cambodia  from the 
1860s onwards, Cambodians continued to wear traditional  clothing. The 
Cambodian royalty and government officials combined the  shot silk sampot chang kben (in the appropriate color for the day of the week) with a formal jacket. In the beginning of the twentieth century, Cambodians adopted forms of western style clothing such as a blouse or shirt. Men more readily adopted trousers as the lower garment for daily use, and both sexes continue to wear the sampot chang kben
  for formal occasions. Lower class and particularly rural women still  
wear a tube-skirt, but the material may be printed batik-patterned cloth
  bought at the market rather than hand-woven silk or cotton.
Silk Textiles
The most important silk textiles of Cambodia are the ikat silks (hol), twill-patterned, weft ikat textiles. The pattern is made by tying vegetable or synthetic fibers
  on sections of the weft threads before the threads are dyed. This  
process is repeated for different colored dye baths until the patterns  
are formed and the cloth is woven. The two types of hol textiles have five traditional colors: red, yellow, green, blue, and black. The sampot hol is the lower garment mentioned earlier, made from hol cloth (hol cloth can also be used for sampot chang kben). The pidan hol is a ceremonial hanging reserved for religious or sacred purposes.
The pidan hol
  is an example of excellent craftsmanship. It may be presented to a  
Buddhist temple or hung it in homes to create sacred space around the  
family's personal shrine. In a temple this textile is hung behind,  
above, or around the base of, a Buddha image. The narrative motifs of a pidan hol often depict tales of the previous lives of the Buddha.
Wednesday, July 3, 2013
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